summer symposium 2022 > experimental studio 2022

picture gallery 2022 >

Mo, 25. - Fr, 29. Juli 2022:

Weaving on the Electronically Controlled Jacquard Loom

It is a fascinating moment to see the design one has developed on the computer, being produced by a professional weaving machine. The speed, the noise, the vibration of the machine has an effect that draws one in. After a few minutes the pattern is visible, and immediately one realises the countless possibilities this technology offers.

There are only few places where designers, handweavers and artists can experience that, unless they happen to work for a textile firm. Yet, due to the interconnection of the processes of developing and producing there is enormous potential. As warp threads can be individually lifted in Jacquard weaving, various and free ideas can be realised. As soon as one understands the construction of a weave and how the machine works, the interplay between idea, material and technique influences and broadens the understanding for textile creative processes.  

Precisely for these purposes the electronically controlled Jacquard loom is available at the Textile Centre Haslach, as well as the necessary CAD equipment for developing the patterns and compiling the weave drafts. This equipment originally stems from the former Textile School at Haslach, und was transferred to the Textile Centre Haslach in 2011. Since then, it has been used for the making of products, in cooperative projects and courses of various universities and educational institutions. In recent years many students were assisted in developing their individual fabrics on the interface between artistic design and technical execution, and were able to gather a wealth of experience.

The aim of the Experimental Studio in 2022 is to place the professional equipment and competence at the disposal of a select group of individuals, who want to realise their own ideas on a Jacquard machine.

This is directed at persons with a foreknowledge of weave construction and technique, who want to carry out a specific artistic or design-orientated project. Special emphasis is placed on the process of developing, experimenting with various materials and weaves as well as the exchange within the group on construction and concepts. The possibilities of the industrial machine will be explored, while accepting its limitations – the machine is less flexible than a hand loom. The creative potential of this fascinating technology will be investigated, even though no large yardages can be produced in five days.

However, small article ranges might be produced, specific product ideas tried out and free artistic ideas realised. Each participant is expected to set out their own theme and work out a schedule. The result of the experimental studio will be an unfinished loomstate fabric. It must be borne in mind that it might not be up to everyday wear and tear.

The Jacquard loom of the Textile Centre Haslach has a cloth width of 165 cm and weaves 3 repeats side by side. It is beamed with a warp of Tencel (an ecological semisynthetic fibre by Messrs. Lenzing) in off-white with 48 threads per cm. There is a large number of yarns in various colours, thicknesses and materialities for the weft material available at the Textile Centre Haslach. Participants can bring their own yarns provided they are machine-compatible. The digital files are created with the CAD programme ARAHNE which is available on 6 workstations of the Textile Centre Haslach.

The entire development process is embedded in the infrastructure of the Textile Centre Haslach. Apart from the hand-weaving studio with CAD equipment, the mechanical workshop and the material store, the participants may upon consultation use the Weavers’ Museum, the textile archives and the library for inspiration and working.

For participating in the Experimental Studio, you have to hand in an application. Ideas and concepts will be discussed and condensed beforehand, to leave the 5 days in the studio for implementation/execution.


Planned sequence:

Application by March 31, 2022 at the latest:
Short portfolio containing the former textile activities, short description of a rough idea for the project to be realised at the experimental studio (Application form see www.textile-kultur-haslach.at). A maximum of 6 persons will be selected.

April 15, 2022:
Announcement of participants, dispatch of detailed information regarding the technical possibilities at Haslach.

May/June 2022:
Individual preliminary discussion of the projects via Zoom.

Mon July, 25 to Fri 29, 2022:
After a tour through the textile Centre Haslach, presentation of the technical possibilities and the material store, presentation of the individual projects of the participants in the group. Introduction to the CAD Programme ARAHNE and presentation of fabrics that were realised on the Jacquard machine earlier.
On the following days, work on the projects and continual exchange within the group. Documentation and short final presentation on the last day.

 
Circle of participants: all who want to realise their own Jacquard project on an industrial weaving machine under expert supervision.
Prerequisites: profound knowledge of weaving and weave construction, experience in developing design concepts and artistic projects. Experience with CAD programmes for weaving is an advantage but not a prerequisite.
Course language: German, English if required
Number of participants: maximum of 6
Course fee: 315 Euros, for students 284 Euros. Material costs will be separately charged at 15,60 € or 19,80 € respectively depending on weft density.

Course instructor 1: ELISABETH STÖTZLER, Germany/Austria
Assistance with concept development and CAD equipment.
Born 1969, training as hand weaver, dressmaker; 1989 – 1994 study Textile Design at Fachhochschule Coburg, Dept. Münchberg, long-term practice in craft businesses and the textile industry; since 2017 teacher at Kunstuniversität Linz, Department textil.kunst.design , Fashion & Technology; Collaboration at the Textile Centre Haslach in the field of Jacquard weaving/CAD, designing, courses.

Course instructor 2: ANDREAS SELZER, Austria
Supervision/assistance at the weaving machine
Born in Vienna in 1968, 1989 graduation from HTBLVA Spengergasse Vienna, 1991 – 2008 Sales Office Manager and Consultant for various textile companies domestic and abroad, 2009 – 2017 Manager Production and Sales at Manufaktur Haslach alom wolle, since 2017 Commercial Director and (Production Manager) production at the Textile Centre Haslach.